Ceviche (Coogee) - Not quite beachy

Sydney is home to Australia's finest beaches, from iconic Bondi Beach to hideaway Clovelly Beach to pristine Palm Beach. Golden sands, rolling waves, and gentle sea breezes are reminders that we indeed are the lucky country. With so many fab beaches, one would think limitless opportunities abound for restaurants to take advantage of the spectacular beauty, but not so. Bondi Beach is home to fantastic fine diners such as celebrity haunt Icebergs Dining Room, as well as notable eateries such as Sean's Panaroma and Pompei's, as are Palm Beach and Manly Beach; but beautiful Coogee? It's all quiet on the culinary front.

Coogee Beach is one of this city's most picturesque and popular, but it's barren when it comes to excellent dining options. There are some pretty good eateries in Churrasco and Moo Gourmet Burgers, but nothing that simultaneously makes use of the location and takes the breath away. Bluesalt in the Crowne Plaza Hotel has the ocean views but not the food; Chi of Coogee had the food but not the view (and is now closed); and everything else is mainly clustered on a strip of Coogee Bay Road where the views are of soused patrons and footballers stumbling out of Coogee Bay Hotel. Not exactly inspiring. One restaurant hoping to buck the trend is Ceviche, a modern Australian restaurant situated on Carr Street, a prime location adjacent to the beach.

Ceviche is the epicurean baby of Austrian chef and owner Nik Eberhardt, and before settling into its current premises in late 2009, was a fixture at the nearby Randwick Rugby Club for five years from 2003, so it has a history in the area. I did not dine at the previous incarnation, so I cannot comment on the food quality, but its new home is clearly superior with panoramic views of the beach and Coogee Bay.

The restaurant is spacious, and a large dining room seating up to a hundred diners is complemented by a balcony dining area and a streetside deck area to take advantage of the Sydney weather. Sparingly and tastefully appointed with photos and artwork, the decor is however demode and a little tired. Colours are drab and do not make use of the space, and attempts at colour injection are garish and incongruous. In keeping with the beachside location, the ambience is casual and relaxing.

The menu is a well-varied selection of dishes that make good use of fresh Australian produce, and in particular seafood. The menu changes monthly as all good restaurants do, and the cuisine is mainly French with tiny splashes of Thai, Japanese, and Italian, but strangely - given the chef's origin - no Austrian. I guess even one schnitzel dish would have taken Ceviche a step too far into cafe territory, something to be avoided in a suburb full of run-of-the-mill ones.

WA scampi, mango & mint salad, vanilla bean beurre blanc ($26)

An entree of Western Australian scampi looks spectacular, with the legs and tails of the halved crustaceans splayed in all directions, and topped with a vibrant salad of mango, capsicum and mint. Unfortunately, the flavours are tempered and stymied by a sweet vanilla bean beurre blanc. Each component, from the slightly overcooked scampi to the lack of punch in the salad to the bizarre sauce, is average and the dish itself lacks cohesion and clarity.

Cowra lamb loin, parsnip puree, vegetables, juniper berry glaze ($32.50)

The mains, while much better in concept and flavours, lack execution. The Cowra lamb is simply presented with parsnip puree and broccolini. The loin (usually rump) is cooked nicely medium-to-well done as requested, and its simplistic approach pays dividends, allowing the focus to fall on the gorgeous meat. And just as well because the broccolini is insipid while the puree is underseasoned. A juniper berry glaze big on promise fails to appear.

Crispy duck, turnips, greens, peach & star anise chutney ($32.50)

Unfortunately, the duck main suffers from a low duck to sauce ratio and an oversprinkling of salt on top. A neatly assembled stack of anatine leg and thigh, broccolini (again), wafer-thin turnip tranches, and a peach and star anise chutney, the highlight - like the ovine dish - is the protein. Cooked more than I'd like, the duck is slightly dry but the skin soars with its divine crispiness while the fat underneath is rendered to heavenly perfection. When the skin is done and dusted however, there is insufficient chutney to compensate, and while it is lovely and sweet, the star anise is too subtle to have an impact.

Hand cut chips, herb aioli ($6.50)

Points to the kitchen for actual hand-cut chips, but since this is the first time I have ever sent back chips for being undercooked, the less said about them the better. The re-cooked chips are much better though and the waitress apologised wholeheartedly for the kitchen's temporary maladroitness.

Chocolate plate - chocolate tart, dark chocolate & chilli ice cream, chocolate mousse, white chocolate brulee ($17.50)

The meal ends on a good dulcifying high though, with a pretty quartet of chocolate desserts presented on a rectangular plate and fenced with raspberry coulis dots. The tart, ice cream, mousse and brulee are delicious and just the right amount to satisfy. The chilli and chocolate ice cream provides an unexpected zap but otherwise the dessert goes according to plan. It is an honest and artful plate of contrasting textures that is good value, especially to share.

Beachside dining should be dazzling, but everything about Ceviche is filled with cliches. The menu is eclectic but the food is only above average with glimpses of excellence; the service, while alacritous and efficient, lacks polish; the view is at times stunning but restricted; the prices are unnecessarily high; and the decor misses the mark but the ambience is warm and inviting. The biggest negative is the overpriced mains. Overall, four dishes for around $110 fails to deliver when compared to other restaurants. On a weekend when the state election was as sobering for Labor as it was predictable, the same predictability threatens to befall Ceviche. Whereas the only alternative to Labor was Bazzo and the Libs, there are numerous better-credentialled alternatives to Ceviche. Its proximity to Coogee Beach may ensure a steady trickle of curious tourist diners, but to locals, it's a wasted opportunity.

What we ordered:

Entrees - WA scampi, mango & mint salad, vanilla bean beurre blanc

Mains - crispy duck, turnips, greens, peach and star anise chutney; Cowra lamp loin, parsnip puree, vegetables, juniper berry glaze

Sides - hand cut chips, herb aioli

Desserts - chocolate plate (chocolate tart, dark chocolate & chilli ice cream, chocolate mousse, white chocolate brulee)

Total bill - $115 for two

The good: interesting menu, duck skin, lamb perfectly cooked as requested, views of beach and water, friendly waitresses, quick service (our request to finish the meal in an hour and fifteen minutes was accurately met)

The bad: scampi entree, mains overpriced and not quite together, underdone chips, male lavatory smells of urinal cakes

What the?: the restaurant website has the chef's full CV as a pdf file!

www.ceviche.com.au

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Soffritto (Newtown) - Rome(ing) around (New)town

Like most things in life, combinations can be good or bad. The good? Strawberries and cream; Homer and Marge; pork and apple; ice cream and fries; ham and eggs; chocolate and anything. The bad? Pig's blood and macarons; sausage and strawberry milkshake; sweetbreads and Skittles; Charlie Sheen and a video camera. What about stifling 42°C heat, 90% humidity, and having to dine out because it is too hot to cook (or do anything) at home? Bad, very bad. Not Rebecca Black and Friday kind of bad, but b-a-d.

That torturous day was a few months ago, in the midst of the hottest Sydney day I can recall. The fridge melted, the mercury in the thermometer yelped in pain, the roof of the car was barbecue hotplate-ready, and we had to venture outside to eat.

We also had to see a play at the New Theatre in King Street, Newtown later in the evening, so the most appropriate action was to seek solace in an air-conditioned eatery somewhere near the theatre.

Luckily for us, I had earlier been reading various food blog posts about contemporary European restaurant Soffritto. So, after seeing it was within reasonable proximity to the theatre, it was an easy decision.

King Street in Newtown is most noted for being a busy bohemian street lined both sides by eateries of varying quality. The majority of these eateries are Asian (and in particular Thai), so the presence of the incongruous Soffritto is a welcome respite.

Soffritto has a small dining area but the decor is smart. Polished concrete floors, dark tables and chairs, cast iron light fixtures, candles, paintings, and a damask wallpapered feature wall make up the cosy space.

We love a simple menu, especially when the heat and humidity renders us nebulochaotic, and the Italian-leaning one at Soffritto is short and sweet. Three courses for $49 or a five course degustation for $70, with five entree options, six main options, and five dessert options. Sitting in the air-conditioned comfort, three courses seems ideal and we choose different dishes for all three.

Truffled potato gnocchi and parmigianno ($17)

I choose gnocchi and it's confession time. In all thirty seven years of my life I cannot recall eating gnocchi. Not even once. Does that make me a bad person? Probably not, but I am still praying I don't end up next to a decapitated horse's head tomorrow morning. Have I missed much? Yes, yes, and yes! Everyone likes to call them little pillows, but to me they are joyous mini-nuggets of melt-in-the-mouth potato-dom of which I am now a loyal subject. The truffled cheesy creaminess was surprisingly non-stodgy and it made for a satisfying entree. I'm not sure parmigianno has two n's in it but they can spell it with four n's as long as the dish tastes so good.

Tortellini filled with duck, balsamico and sage ($17)

Another confession: I have never had tortellini either. Only kidding. Who do you think I am? Don't answer that, it'll only hurt me. Nicely al dente, these duck-filled pasta parcels are rich, balanced and hearty to the max. Like the gnocchi dish, there are not many contrasting textures but this is simple but rustic and delicious, and we end up almost slurping the wonderful broth from the bowl if it wasn't for the spoons.

Roasted, deboned spatchcock alla Siicilianna with soft polenta ($27)

Spatchcock is seemingly on the rise too, having seen it on various menus around Sydney lately. This one is roasted, partly "deboned" (isn't a drumstick bone a bone??), and sits on a quagmire of fluffy polenta. Done Sicilian-style means nothing to me, except for the fact that there may be influences from Greek or Middle Eastern cuisine, which my palate fails to discern. It is cooked very well and once again rich, hearty and flavoursome, and the polenta is light enough to not be stodgy. I did crave some vegetable accompaniment though.

Roast fillet of beef wrapped in pancetta with mushrooms and garlic spinach ($27)

The beef fillet is also roasted, but to a good medium-rare consistency, although we weren't asked how much we wanted it cooked. Wrapped in pancetta, the flavour is sharp and the beef is juicy and tender. The silken potato mash helps to cut the richness of the broth and the spinach is well cooked but the garlic is a touch overwhelming. A no-fuss dish but effective if the flavours are right, and they are mainly on the mark here.

Fried pedro ximenez and cinnamon ice cream parcel ($12)

Mention ice cream, parcel, and fried (in no particular order) and you have my attention. This cuneate parcel of cinnamon ice cream is encased by a flaky pastry of perfect crispature. One prod with the spoon and the ice cream gently oozes out in a flow of cinnamony and creamy goodness. It's a tantalising mix of textures and complimented by the pedro ximenez honey. Fab.

Warm chocolate pudding with strawberries and gelato ($12)

Ah, warm chocolate pudding, three of my favourite words in the English language, along with horripilate, absquatulate, and ultracrepidarianism. It will be a sad day when I start to ignore a chocolate pudding or fondant on the menu, but that time is yet to come. This is a big pudding too, which puts a smile on the dial. Accompanied by a scoop of vanilla gelato and a handful of macerated strawberries, the pudding is average. There is that singed chocolatey crust that is my engouement, but not enough to appease. The inside is cooked through enough and partners well with the cold and sweet gelato and strawberries, but somehow I'm still wanting more.

Apart from the food, the service on this particular night is efficient but a little aloof. Our meals are simply brought over to the table and that's about it. The servers seem to flitter about between the dining room, the kitchen, and the street front with regularity. They are attentive with the water-filling but don't appear to have much interest otherwise. Perhaps the heat and humidty ruffled their feathers as well, and the fact the air-conditioning was also overwhelmed by the external heat probably had an impact.

Three courses for $49 is a good deal for great quality European/Italian food in Newtown, especially if one is after a non-Asian alternative. The selection is limited but it shows the strength and confidence in the kitchen to get the dishes right. It is not going to win any awards for creativity, but for solid, hearty, rustic fare, Soffritto on King Street is a safe bet worthy of a look.

The good: superb entrees, fried cinnamon ice cream parcel, value (three courses for $49), decor
The bad: chocolate pudding is disappointing, mains are middling, outhouse-esque toilet, sitting next to a constantly clicking and audible water meter box
What the?: waitstaff running out onto the street at random times is unprofessional

www.soffritto.com.au

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Lotus (Potts Point) - D-Ho in da house yo

I can barely walk and talk at the same time, so I admire people who are adept at multitasking. Mothers who can cook and placate a screaming child; idiots who can drive and text; singers like Pink who can sing and dance live; and chefs who can expertly run multiple restaurant kitchens and twitter his fingers off. Dan Hong is one of those chefs.

Readers of my recent post about Dan's new Ms. G's noshery at Potts Point knows how enjoyable that meal was. His Asian fusion cuisine zips Contiki-style around Asia with nods to Chinese, Japanese, Korean, Taiwanese, Vietnamese and more, married with a technique honed in some of the best kitchens in Sydney; what's not to <3? His original venture Lotus is a upmarket bistro with fewer Asian influences than his newest, but is more or less full of his fanfaronade I have come to know and love.

The baby-faced and currently glabrous generation-next chef with a penchant for sneakers, UFC, basketball, hip-hop and R&B music is full of cohones in everything he does. Whether it be cooking, duelling Guillaume Brahimi in Iron Chef Australia, or wearing purple Phantom-esque lycra tights in last year's March Into Merivale ads, he does it with aplomb. Somewhat surprisingly, he is here at Lotus on this Saturday evening's dinner service, when we thought he would be running the pass at Ms. G's around the corner.

It has been about a year since our last meal at Lotus, and the menu has changed from the standard entrees, mains, and desserts menu to the culinary denier cri of sharing plates. Everything else appears unchanged, except the chef's name on the menu has shortened from the formal Daniel to that of Dan, a sign of maturity and confidence.

Complimentary bread rolls

The current menu's appetising selection of sharing plates raid the ocean as much as it does the land, with oysters, scallops, tuna, scampi, prawns, octopus, crab, calamari, and a fish of the day joining lamb, pork (belly), duck, beef, and even venison for one's eating pleasure, with no dish over twenty-six big ones. Vegetarians are also catered for with three dishes. There's a lot of fun and whimsy in the food too, from almond gazpacho to dashi custard to kim chi consomme; but does it work? Let's find out.

Vietnamese-inspired scampi ceviche ($22)

First stop on the Contiki tour is the Vietnamese-inspired ceviche, which has undergone a transformation recently from scallop to scampi, and an attendant three-buck increase. A wonderfully vibrant dish of contrasting textures, delicate flavours, and fresh succulent translucent scampi, it has umami notes from fish sauce and a 6a.m. wake-up call in the form of camouflauged green chilli rings that smashes the tastebuds like a Steve Austin Stone Cold Stunner. This ephemeral sensation makes this dish an absolute joy though, and this coming from someone with a middling spice tolerance.

Southern calamari with chorizo, peas, ricotta & lime ($18)

Next stop is a trans-continental melange, destination unknown. The calamari dish is less engaging than the scampi ceviche, but no less a beautiful and vibrant plate of food. Pieces of chopped, perfectly cooked and bouncy calamari are tossed with a handful of chorizo, fresh peas, woodear fungus, and diced baby corn. Brightened by a rich ricotta cream topped with radioactive-green wasabi tobiko, the dish is texturally interesting and balanced but lacking that je nai sais quoi.

Crispy duck parcel, spiced beetroot purée, orange jus ($22)

For more substantial fare, we swing back through China with the crispy duck parcel, a beautiful-looking dish which is essentially an oblongish spring roll. Fantastically crispy on the outside, the inside is jammed with shredded duck seasoned and cooked nicely, but texturally homogeneous and uninteresting. A wonderfully piquant sauce, beetroot in the form of puree and turned vegetable, and an unknown white fungus lifts the dish into delicious territory with sweetness, acidity, and saltiness. A good dish but lacking the usual D-Ho bravado.

Inside the duck parcel

'The Cheeseburger' ($18)

Despite not in keeping with the Asian theme, the bravado is back with 'The Cheeseburger'. How else would you describe the plating of a lone burger on a white plate with no secondary distractions? Not only is the dish austere, it is also as simple as it gets ingredients-wise. An attempt to emulate McDonald's with top-notch ingredients, the size of the burger suffers. While other high-end burgers are whoppers (Rockpool Bar & Grill, Plan B, Charlie & Co.), the Lotus burger is a lil brother in comparison. The decision to use a soft bun a la Macca's is good and bad. It is so pillowy-soft the entire burger is uber melt-in-the-mouth, but also fragile to hold and cut. We are informed that Dan likes the burger to be served whole, but we ask for it to be halved anyway and we are glad, as our attempt would have resulted in a hot mess despite the scary Dexter knife. The burger is undeniably superb and the ultimate cheeseburger we've tried, but no accompaniments coupled with its price (and up two dollars from the start of the year) has us wanting more burger and value.

Lotus may be a self-styled bistro but their desserts are of a much higher pedigree and their presentations are on par with the earlier savoury dishes. There are only four to choose from plus a cheese but each one sounds enticingly wicked.

Lime sponge and watermelon, coconut sorbet, lime curd ($15)

An artfully constructed plate of subtle lime sponge, watermelon slice, creamy coconut sorbet, and tart lime curd is pleasing to the eye. Light and slightly zingy, the combination is delicate and balanced with no standout component. A refreshingly good dessert to end a meal without feeling bloated.

Warm choc chip cookie, vanilla ice cream, raspberry, butterscotch ($15)

The chocolate chip cookie dessert has more than a few similarities to Ms. G's "Jam Doughnut" in looks and taste. There are even jagged honeycomb blocks (not mentioned in the description) that is the textural crunch equivalent of the dehydrated donut pieces in the G's dessert. Besides the airy honeycomb crunch, juicy soft raspberries and coulis, gooey chocolate-centred and warmly doughy choc chip cookie, a large scoop of vanilla ice cream topped with a lattice of butterscotch sauce completes a very pretty picture. Cold, warm, sweet, sticky, and sour are all combined beautifully for a decadent but not excessively rich dessert.

Despite having his hands in two kitchens, the responsibility has not diminished the young chef's vision. It is a testament to his talent and standards that both Lotus and Ms. G's are killing it at the mo. With refined, punchy and creative dishes, affordable prices, a relaxed ambience, and sympathique friendly service, Lotus is entrenched comfortably in the upper echelon of Sydney fine dining bistros, shining as brightly as Lil Wayne's teeth bling. Word up y'all.

The good: scampi ceviche, desserts, modern pan-Asian food, warm service, casual atmosphere, alfresco dining

The bad: great cheeseburger but wanted more, duck parcel itself a little plain

What the?: staff trundling back and forth between the restaurant and the storage room (?) in the apartment block next door is distracting

www.merivale.com/#/lotus/lotus

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Crust Gourmet Pizza Bar (Neutral Bay) - Starlight Cinema

What says summer in Sydney more than watching a movie outdoors under our peerless firmament? Maybe a game of backyard cricket, a barbecue, or a day at the beach but that's about it. The end of summer is nigh and the weather forecast accurately predicted a bonza afternoon, so we headed to North Sydney to catch psychological drama Black Swan and indulge in some fine pizzas.

For about a month-and-a-half during summer, North Sydney Oval was home to the Starlight Cinema, and this year, gourmet pizza bar Crust from nearby Neutral Bay joined forces to provide movie patrons pizzas delivered gratis. By pre-ordering food between 5p.m. and 6p.m. on the night of the movie, one gets free delivery to the venue as well as 10% off. How great and convenient is that?

The menu at Crust is extensive to say the least, with traditional pizzas, meat pizzas, chicken pizzas, seafood pizzas, vegetarian pizzas, upper crust pizzas, healthier choice pizzas (which are Heart Foundation approved), and calzones making up the pizza options, while there is also a limited range of salads and desserts. There is definitely something for everyone here. It was so difficult to choose we randomly selected two pizzas and a salad.

BBQ Chicken - marinated chicken breast fillets, mushrooms, Spanish onions and shallots on a BBQ base ($16)

A barbecue sauce base is my favourite, having grown up on barbecue meatlover pizzas from first Pizza Hut and now Dominos. This version is not too sweet and has a good smattering of tender chicken and the other fillings. The combination of mushrooms, Spanish onions and shallots is a good one, and the crust is thin and crispy.

Mediterranean Lamb - slow-cooked marinated lamb, tomato, fresh capsicum, Spanish onions, feta, oregano, garnished with mint yogurt and lemon on a garlic-infused base ($16)

The lamb pizza looks quite similar to the BBQ chicken except with whole slices of tomatoes, a drizzle of mint yogurt, and a lemon wedge. Its sauceless base is a little dry but slightly redeemed by the tomato, and it's tasty. However the lamb is overwhelmed by the other elements. It doesn't really work for us and we preferred the BBQ chicken pizza more.

By the time the pizzas got to North Sydney Oval, they were on the south side of lukewarm, but we had expected that. Who doesn't love cold pizza? The flavours tend to increase exponentially the colder a pizza gets, and by the next day the leftovers made up a delish lunch.

Caesar Salad - mixed leaf, bacon, parmesan, croutons with Caesar dressing ($9.50)

The salad is a typical Caesar and it's a big serving. A too-small but creamy dressing came in a sachet which was only enough to tickle the top of the salad. By the time we got to the bottom, we were munching on dry leaves like Bugs. The slices of chicken were also insufficient and a tad dry, and unfortunately, quite a bit had spilt into the bottom of the plastic bag from the way it was transported to the venue. Still, it was good to have a serving of greens to accompany the pizzas.

After we had our quota of Crust goodness, the movie started as the sun disappeared but it wasn't long before the temperature dropped so much my t-shirt clad body was crying in pain. So as Miss Portman's character descended into Charlie Sheen-like hell, we had to decamp forty minutes into the movie. The lesson therefore is to bring some extra layers lest it becomes cold and windy. And if one doesn't like to lie on the ground to watch a movie, bring seating as the ones provided for loan are as comfortable as Mel Gibson in a Jewish bar.

A big thank you to the generous folks at Crust and in particular Carrie Morgan for the complimentary tickets to the movie and for the great food. If Crust Neutral Bay pairs up with the Starlight Cinema again next year, take advantage of the fantastic Sydney summer and enjoy a movie and gourmet pizza in the open air north of the bridge. It may yet be a new quintessential Sydney experience.

www.crust.com.au

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Dolcetto (Entertainment Quarter) -EQuivocating no Moore

After admitting last week to having watched the Curiosity Show - which, by the way, ran from 1972 to 1990 - I have another confession which shows my age. Back when the yabba dabba dos of Fred Flinstone and gang played on Aussie television on weekday afternoons, the site where the Entertainment Quarter now sits was home to the Sydney Royal Easter Show. Since the show moved to its new home at the Sydney Olympic Park at Homebush Bay, the area has gone from being Fox Studios to the now spuriously named Entertainment Quarter.

Fox Studios was an exciting venture in the late nineties, and some of the more mature readers may recall the Warner Bros. Movie World-esque theme park that was an abject failure. Despite attractions such as Babe, The Simpsons soundstage, and an impressive recreation of the Titanic which successfully captured the spirit of the Academy Award winning film, the theme park closed a mere three years after opening. Since then, it has become a soulless space of two cinemas, empty shops, a small open-air market, the Comedy Store, the Hordern Pavilion, and a handful of uninspiring eateries.

Without a doubt, the two cinemas at the Entertainment Quarter are first rate, clean, and well kept. The Comedy Store is a small and intimate club for up-and-coming comedians to hone their craft, and the Hordern Pavilion is a popular moderately sized concert venue that has been around since Adam and Eve. With such venues open to occasional large patronage, the number of good eateries in the area is disappointing. So much so that unless I am short of time, I avoid the area, such is my ennui for the culinary offerings here. The only worthwhile eateries at the EQ are the Bavarian Bier Cafe and Golden Century, while the rest are unappealing and mediocre. Recently however, a new bar and grill by the name of Dolcetto has opened in the space formerly occupied by New Zealand Natural, so we are here to see how it fares

Dolcetto is an unassuming little corner eatery offering bistro-style food in an indoor and outside setting. The kitchen is in the front of the restaurant and privy to prying eyes, so one can watch the chefs in action. The meals are reasonably priced and nothing is over $25. There are bistro staples such as fish and chips and spaghetti bolognese to more crafty fare such as pork belly with linguine in chilli sauce and lamb shoulder in pastry. The specials board has a better selection of dishes than the normal menu so we order from that.

Lamb shoulder in pastry with creamy potato ($24.90)

The lamb shoulder in pastry is not quite a wellington, but not too dissimilar. Whereas a wellington typically uses a whole piece of meat (beef, lamb, etc.), this dish has shredded lamb shoulder meat wrapped by pastry. There are holes in the pastry casing however, so the meat is a touch dry where these are, but the rest of the lamb is otherwise tender, juicy, and terrific. The pastry is baked well and a little crispy while the sauce is glossy and sapid, but a lack of greens is conspicuous and would have minified the richness.

The creamy potato accompaniment

The richness is not helped by the accompaniment of creamy potato though, which is basically a potato gratin. It is a bit heavy and there is a lot of it in the phylliform bowl, but it is tasty and quite moreish.

Risotto with duck in pink sauce ($17.50)

It is hard to pass up a risotto at the best of times, but especially when it is advertised as being in a pink sauce and with duck. Alas, the kitchen must be colourblind (or it might be me), because orange does not really approximate to pink in the colour spectrum. Colour confusion aside, this is a well cooked Asian-Italian risotto on the right side of al dente and not mushy. Shreds of overcooked duck mar the dish slightly, but the creaminess of the tomato base makes it hearty and scrumptious. The squiggle of soy-like reduction however looks like spillage and is superfluous.

Fries ($6)

Fries are a perfect side for any meal of mine but these are underseasoned, undercooked and therefore wan and floppy, making us wish we had ordered a side of greens instead. Sacrilege I know.

Next door is Dolcetto dessert bar, the progenitor of the bar and grill and established for a while if my memory serves. It probably caused the demise of New Zealand Natural as it has a great range of cakes, crepes, pancakes and gelati for dining in (outdoors or indoors) and take away.

Oddly, it also serves savoury crepes such as meat lovers and chicken delight, as well as an interesting but gross-sounding spaghetti ice cream. Not in an experimental mood, we order a chocolate dessert to share.

Chocolate Indulgence ($6.50)

Chocolate indulgence is an apposite description of this chocolate fondant topped with a swirl of ganache and a white chocolate disc. Moist, rich, a little crusty, and with choco-goo oozing the appropriate sugar rush, it doesn't require the overkill of another squiggle of chocolate sauce or whipped cream, but it is super value at $6.50.

Finally some belated redemption for the Entertainment Quarter. Although not hitting any great epicurean heights, Dolcetto is a much needed and cheerful addition to the dining morass in this moribund precinct. With a varied selection of above average bistro fare, including a fab lamb shoulder in pastry dish, it is a great alternative to the tired options available. The composition of dishes needs adjustments and the kitchen requires consistency, but no longer is there a reason to exclaim "Eat my shorts!" the next time somebody suggests a trip to the EQ.

The good: lamb shoulder in pastry, duck risotto, chocolate indulgence fondant, good value

The bad: underdone fries, service could be less chaotic and warmer

What the?: pink sauce???

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