The restaurant location merry-go-round has a new victim, and it's not just the city's fine diners who have sought a change in scenery. In the year two-hatted Becasse has relocated to Westfield Sydney and one-hatted Restaurant Arras has moved into the erstwhile space occupied by Becasse, established Crown Street Thai favourite Yok Yor has packed its knives and decamped closer to Chinatown. The move has taken a little while and when it reopened early last month, it had been more than six months since the old site shut its doors.
While the moves for Becasse and Restaurant Arras are logical (Becasse for expansion and Arras for increased lunchtime patronage), the same cannot be said for Yok Yor. Its former Crown Street site was a handy location close to busy Oxford Street; its digs were big, the takeaway business thrived in the apartment-dominated area, and competition for great Thai food was limited. In its new location, the game has changed. Yes, its proximity to Chinatown will naturally afford it more customers, but with it comes formidable rivals in the form of Chat Thai, House, Thainatown, Spice I Am, and numerous others dotted around the immediate area.
So what's changed with Yok Yor's relocation? For starters, there's the rebranding as a self-proclaimed 'Thai Food Factory', whatever that means, but it sounds a more informal approach. The eatery itself has been reduced to more than half its former size, so there are fewer tables and they are closer together. The decor has been updated to a homogenised look consistent with the Chat Thai's of the world: that is, all bare concrete floor and ceiling; exposed pipes, beams, and brickwork; dark wooden furniture; and an open kitchen on the right side of the eatery. It has applied the Chat Thai/Home template almost to a 'T' (even the logo is now yellow), with the only curiosity being the coloured hard-hats worn by the kitchen staff.Aside from the obvious answer to the hard-hat conundrum - they are a 'factory' after all - the question is, why?
From memory, Yok Yor in Crown Street was an Australian branch of a famous restaurant in Thailand, but the relocation appears to have severed that familial connection. Subsequently, the menu has been reduced from a fairly extensive neatly-bound book to a smaller and more manageable A4-sized list of street food items. Smartly, they have also added four desserts, knowing Sydneysiders' propensity for all things sweet. Unfortunately, they may have applied too much sweetness, but more on that later.
Hoi Joh ($8.50) - a mixture of crab meat and minced pork wrapped in tofu sheet then fried, served with plum sauce
The two entrees we had are survivors from the Crown Street menu, and the Hoi Joh (whose name reminds me of the song Jai Ho from Slumdog Millionaire) in particular was a past favourite. They have remained identical, with four nuggets of meaty and tasty minced pork and crab wrapped in tofu skin and deep fried. Unfortunately, the price has increased from $6.90 to $8.50 and the presentation has suffered. Gone is the neat plating of the small white plate and banana leaf, and in their place is a too-large plate with roosters on it that draws unnecessary attention away from the food.
Tod Mun Goong ($8.50) - prawn and pork patties spiced with crisp sea salt and pepper then crumbed served with sweet plum sauce
The rooster plate returns with the Tod Mun Goong, four discs of minced pork and prawn crumbed and deep-fried. [Man, more minced meat deep-fried? What were we thinking?] These taste exactly as we remembered: bouncy, a bit artificial, and bland, but the coating is good and the meat not chewy. Both entrees came with a plum sauce which was a tad too sweet.
Pork Lad Na ($12) - thick rice noodles topped with pork and Chinese broccoli in gravy of soy and yellow bean sauce
The Pork Lad Na was a generous serving of tender pork strips and thick rice noodles wading in a pool of 'gravy of soy and yellow bean sauce' and topped with crunchy Chinese broccoli. The 'gravy sauce' was flavoursome, thick, and a perfect salve to warm the cockles of our appetites. Alas, some of the noodles were overcooked and macerated to the point of mushiness (and the word mushiness is never good in the description of anything, let alone food), while the dish was overbalanced on the side of sweetness and lacked punch.A hearty dish but too polite in its inoffensiveness.
Gai Tod Hard Yai ($11.50) - Southern Thai fried seasoned chicken served with sweet chilli sauce
Fried chicken is always a winner in my book, especially when it involves the tender flesh of a drumstick and two wings, but this Gai Tod Hard Yai - surprisingly - was overly dulcified. Perfectly deep-fried it certainly was, but the skin (usually my favourite galline part - KFC, I'm looking at you) was heavy-handed in sweet spices and fried shallots. At least the sweet chilli sauce (why more sweetness?) added a much-needed spiciness to an otherwise unbalanced dish.
Thai Baked Custard ($4.90)
After the overconsumption of sweet-savoury dishes, we would have to be nuts to order dessert, but indeed we do. The Thai Baked Custard looked innocent enough on the menu, a square of custard sprinkled with crispy fried shallots, but when it was brought to our table, we lamented that there were actually two large pieces. It was a simple but delicious dessert: warm, moderately spongy, and not overly sweet (finally!), but it lacked an accompaniment of cream or ice cream that would have complemented the custard well.
A wise man says a change is as good as a holiday, but in the case of Yok Yor's move, we found they have hit a major pothole and suffered a flat tyre. What was once a simple but distinctive eatery with character and charm has changed into a generic and soulless Thai 'food factory' too similar to those of its nearby competitors. From the too-cold interior (there is an outdoor patio heater inside!) to the too-small tables to the poor location (the address is Castlereagh Street but the entrance is in Campbell Street), Yok Yor has lost its edge. The food is similar to before but not as well executed, presented, or varied, and suffers from too much sweetness (something that Sydney Thai food is already accused of). Coupled with increased competition and on-going roadwork outside its front door greatly obscuring visibility of its presence, Yok Yor has a tough job returning to its former likeability and that is a shame.
The good: Hoi Joh; Thai Baked Custard; there are desserts and they are well priced; friendly service
The bad: savoury dishes too sweet; new location is hard to find (forget about using Google Maps); tiny tables; limited room; one toilet; cold interior; hesitant service; generic and homogenous look; sweet fried chicken
What the?: an outdoor patio heater inside the eatery; a food factory?; hard hats on kitchen staff
Who doesn't love the Working Class Man? Australian hard rocker James Swan - better known as Jimmy Barnes - has ruled the Aussie charts with his powerful and gravelly voice since the early seventies with Cold Chisel and through the last few decades as a solo artist. Everybody knows a Barnsey song, whether it's the stirring Khe Sahn or the anthemic Working Class Man or the Simply The Best duet with Tina Turner, making him one of our national treasures. So it was with much interest that I read John's post at He Needs Food about a new Alexandria eatery oddly named 4143 at the James Barnes; I know Jimmy lives nearby so has he decided to venture into the food business? Alas, the answer is no, as James Barnes is simply the name of the disused mill occupied by the new bar and bistro at this out of the way location in Alexandria.
When one thinks of Alexandria in Sydney, food is not the first thing that springs to mind, since this inner-city suburb has always been one of Australia's largest industrial districts. With factories and apartments dominating the landscape, there is not much room for culinary delights, until now.
The noshery is at the corner of busy Bourke Road and Huntley Street, although its official address is 2 Huntley Street. It is conspicuously located in the centre of a large parking lot, the entry to which is on Bourke Road. 4143 serves both bar food and bistro food, has separate menus for each, and has standardised prices. The bar menu consist of pizzas ($10), bar food ($14), salads ($10), and sides ($6), whereas the bistro menu has entrees ($17), mains ($16 for small, $28 for large), sides ($7), and desserts ($10). Bar food is ordered at the bar (duh) and seating is alfresco, and the bistro selection is table service in the spacious and well-lit converted warehouse.
Our first visit was a Friday lunchtime just before midday on a bright, cold, and sunny Sydney winter's day. We were early enough to grab one of the alfresco tables in the sun, and timing was crucial too, as half an hour later, a gaggle of nearby factory and office workers swarmed to the tables like felines to catnip. Perhaps the unintentionally misleading Barnesy reference really does attract the working class man? Or hopefully it's the food.
Chicken schnitzel with house coleslaw ($14)
Unfortunately, it's certainly not the chicken schnitzel, the ubiquitous bar and bistro fave. This version just looked overly orange, and it was indeed overcooked. It wasn't super dry, but enough to be a disappointment. Positively, the coating was moreishly crunchy, and both the accompaniments of beer-battered chips and coleslaw were great.
Wagyu burger with beetroot relish, gherkins, cheddar, and aioli ($14)
Although the schnitzel flopped, redemption doesn't come any better than this, with the wagyu burger an absolute champion. The wagyu beef patty was divinely tender and uber-delish, while everything else was almost perfect, from the awesomeness of the toasty brioche bun, to the sweetness of the beetroot relish; this is a burger to die for. Accompanied by the crispy beer-battered chips, this is the burger that has impressed me the most this year. Forget Rockpool, stuff Charlie & Co, and sorry Lotus and Dan Hong, but the 4143 Barnesy burger has sneakily pulled the rug from under you all with prestidigitation of the highest order!
Our second visit was on a Thursday night, and once again very early (before the kitchen was open), but despite that, we were politely taken to a table inside the restaurant away from the spitting rain.
The restaurant itself is as 2011 as they come, with exposed brickwork, exposed timber and woodwork panelling, wooden floorboards, and wall-to-wall windows designed to maximise natural lighting. It gets quite dim at night however, with only the whites of the table tops providing respite from the dark-wooded interior. The menu is similarly 2011, with a small but enticing selection of bistro favourites done with a modern twist.
Ciabatta bread served with olive oil ($7)
Garlic bread ($7)
Both the inhouse ciabatta and garlic breads were excellently fresh, with beautiful crusts and doughy soft centres. The garlic bread was particularly impressive and a cut above most unimaginative cookie-cutter garlic breads that are rife in Sydney's eateries.
Riverina grain-fed eye fillet with truss tomato confit, confit leeks, pomme puree, and jus ($16)
We decided to order three small servings ($16 each) of half the mains, and they were generally pretty good. The medium-as-requested beef eye fillet was still juicy and moist, while the jus was rich and flavoursome. The red-nose-looking tomato was lusciously sweet and the potatoes and leeks were suitable carbohydrate matches.
Braised lamb shank en crepinette on parsnip puree with muscatel jus ($16)
If I hadn't read John's post, I would have been shocked by the small size of this dish. The lamb shank has conveniently been deboned, making it less messy to eat, but I could not tell where the en crepinette technique was used. The meat was rich, hearty, and not enough, while the dish had more components than listed, with a sweetly soft onion and a few sticks of green beans added to the advertised parsnip puree and muscatel jus. It also looked a little carelessly assembled.
Duck breast on green lentils, spinach, and brussel sprouts ($16)
The duck dish looked gorgeous, with four plump and meaty pieces of anatine breast nestled on green lentils. Tender but a little chewy because of the fatty skin, the duck's sweetness was balanced by the briny lentils, while a brussel sprout added a touch of texture and colour. A note to consider about the dish is that the larger serve at $28 is not that much more substantial, as our friend B found out.
Raspberry semifreddo with meringue sprinkles ($10)
The two desserts we had did not live up to the quality of the savoury courses, but perhaps we chose poorly. The raspberry semifreddo looked small, downright messy, and a little uncertain. It tasted merely a slab of vanilla ice cream with a dollop of raspberry jam, and while the meringue crumbs added a little spark, it failed to win us over aesthetically or taste-wise.
Chocolate and banana beignets with grand marnier ice cream ($10)
The beignets were more successful but presentation still left a bit to be desired. Two spheres of deep-fried dough were missing that banana element (even though the chef claims to have used a whole banana after our query) but they were good. The Grand Marnier ice cream was better and had a luscious creaminess plus a subtle hit of bitter orange from the liqueur. A good combination that needs refinement.
Despite no affiliation with the Oz rock icon himself, 4143 at the James Barnes caters well for the working class man through a selection of well-priced bar and bistro food. The service is efficient and friendly, the location has its pluses and minuses, the atmosphere is convivial, and the flexible choice of menus caters for everyone. The food is better than your average bistro fare, with more flair and chutzpah, but also with its fair share of misses, especially in the sweets department. But with one hell of a stunning wagyu burger that screams value for $14 which includes more than a handful of exceptional beer-battered chips, there may be a foodie pulse in Alexandria yet.
The good: superb wagyu burger and beer-battered chips; great garlic bread; prices are good; convivial atmosphere; smart restaurant decor; plenty of onsite parking; natural lighting during daytime
The bad: disappointing desserts; questionable value of the larger mains at $28 compared to the $16 smaller serves; overcooked chicken schnitzel
What the?: the name 4143 at the James Barnes; it's only been open a short while and already one of the men's toilet mirrors has a big ugly crack
Warning bells sound stridently for me when confronted by an eatery serving multiple cuisines. As if implying a lack of confidence or uncertainty in one style, it harks back to the early eighties when Chinese restaurants served Western favourites (fish and chips, steak and chips, etc.) alongside non-offensive Cantonese fare (sweet and sour pork, lemon chicken, etc.). So why now, in the food-savvy age of the noughties where cooking reality shows rule the idiot box, chefs are feted like rock stars, and only the strong survive, do places like Malacca Straits in Ultimo break the rules with an "everything I need" menu?
Malacca Straits, as its name alludes, is a predominantly Malaysian eatery. Hidden away in an apartment complex near Broadway Shopping Centre, Malacca Straits was curiously absent during the wildly successful Malaysian Kitchen Food Market event held this February in Sydney's CBD. Instead, the likes of Chinta Ria, Mamak, Sambal, Jackie M, and Jimmy's Kitchen represented the flourishing Malay food scene. While Malacca Straits may not be as well known, its chef's pedigree is respectable, he having worked at Malaysian stalwarts The Malaya and Neptune Palace, both of which are currently listed in the latest Sydney Morning Herald's Good Food Guide. Perhaps Malacca's large and confusing menu comprising Malaysian, Thai, and Indonesian dishes are to blame for their snub.
It's been a long time since my last Malaysian food outing, a satisfying post-movie lunch at Mamak Village two blocks up from Malacca Straits, so only time will tell whether Malacca's triple-headed menu is an exception to the rule of multiple cuisines. On the first visit, the initial telltale signs are good. The unprepossessing noshery is simply and quirkily appointed, with its location both a positive and a negative; the positive being its shielding from the cacophony of George Street traffic, and the negative being its inconspicuousness. Other than that, it is more or less an above average-looking Asian restaurant. Looking through the menu however is when it starts to confound.
There are two menus, a regular one and a special one, and they are all mixed up. The special menu has seventeen dishes (a lot for a special menu) and are mainly Malaysian, from otak otak to ayam bakar to chicken satay to a dessert of cendol. The regular menu is enormous with over fifty dishes and comprises everything from spring rolls to tom yum to nasi goreng to crying tiger beef. Unfortunately, there are also a few dishes on the special menu that inexpicably appear on the regular menu, as well as lunch specials on the regular menu, leading to confusion for those whose brains are no longer equipped to handle such complexities. Like me.
Murtabak ($10.50) - minced marinated beef wrapped in thin parchment roti canai and served with curry sauce
I heard a rumour the murtabak here is one of the best around, and who can resist roti? It is a decent serving of roti canai-wrapped beef mince, and although filling, it is not at all stodgy or oily. Flavoursome and moreish, it receives a positive reaction from us and who could ask for anything more?
Penang Kapitan Chicken ($14.80) - boneless chicken in special sauce with ground spices and herbs
The Penang Kapitan Chicken looks simple served in a bowl like a curry but we are shocked by how wonderful it is. Far and away the special star dish of the night, my heart goes bang when its aromatic blend of herbs and spices hits the palate. Just like a dream come true, the slices of chicken breast are cooked to a succulent tenderness and each mouthful is ecstasy. Compared to the rest of the dishes it is in a different class and I just can't wait to come back one lunchtime for this dish with a bowl of steamed rice. A success all the way.
Malaysian-style Salt And Pepper Squid ($16.80) - deep-fried squid in spicy salt and pepper mix
The second time around we return another night to try more Malaysian dishes, even if the first dish is stretching the term 'Malaysian-style'. It is a basic salt and pepper squid that has a good crunchy coating, well-cooked squid, and an even mix of salt and pepper. A solid if unspectacular dish but as with most versions, Malaysian or otherwise, that's the way it is.
Wat Tan Hor/Koay Teow Siram ($11) - wok-seared flat rice noodles immersed in a creamish egg sauce with chicken and mixed seafood
The wat tan hor (loose Cantonese transliteration) is a huge plate of rice noodles wok-fried with a jumble of ingredients including chicken breast, prawn, squid, fishcake, and vegetables. Topped with a generous sprinkling of crunchy fried shallots and smothered by a delicious but only slightly eggy sauce, it is satisfying and filling although closer to a combination rice noodle dish than it should be.
Panang Chicken Curry ($13) - mild red curry with kaffir and vegies
Anytime's the right time for a mouthwatering curry, but especially so when it is the middle of a colder-than-usual Sydney winter. Having already tried the made in heaven Penang Kapitan chicken, the hopes are high for this similar-looking dish. This curry has well-cooked chicken breast pieces as well as chunks of potatoes, and a good level of spiciness that just makes my nose run a little. A very good curry but I'm puzzled as to why this is a Panang chicken curry but the other dish is a Penang Kapitan chicken. I say toe-mar-toe and you say toe-may-toe?
Banana Fritters ($5)
How many eateries have desserts for five dollars? Malacca Straits is the only one I can think of, and being so cheap certainly encourages over-ordering, as is the case on the night when we are stuffed to the britches. There is not a lot of expectation for five-dollar desserts but the two we try are decent. The banana fritters have a good crunchy coating of not-too-greasy batter and are yummy, while the small scoop of generic vanilla ice cream is a cooling counterpoint to the deep-fried heat of the fritters.
Kuih Ketayap ($5) - pandan-flavoured crepe filled with toasted coconut and palm sugar and served with a scoop of ice cream
The kuih ketayap is a single roll of bright green pandan-flavoured crepe with another scoop of generic vanilla ice cream. The presentation leaves a lot to be desired, with the crepe too thick and rough around the edges and a palm sugar sauce as well as coconut cream drizzled haphazardly. It does taste good though, with the sweetness and caramelisation of the toasted coconut shreds balanced by the crepe. Nowhere near as good as the similar kanom bai teuy at Pomegranate in Balmain but it's still a respite from other familiar Asian desserts.
Despite my tangle of emotions apropos the various cuisines the menu offers, Malacca Straits has won me over with its no-nonsense Malaysian food at affordable prices. The savoury dishes are in general excellent, especially the deliciously aromatic Penang Kapitan chicken, and the desserts are a cheap-and cheerful end to the meal. It's no secret I have been perplexed by the popularity of Mamak (as I have eaten there twice without much success), so my impression of Malaysian cuisine is underwhelming, but it's never too late to start appreciating, so I should be so lucky for Malacca Straits. The food is delicious and although presentation could use some work, things can only get better. So the word is out: at Malacca Straits you can enjoy yourself excellent Malaysian food without hurting your wallet, and that is always welcome in these carbon tax times.
The good: savoury dishes (the Penang Kapitan chicken is tremendous); $5 desserts; location is oblivious to traffic noise from the busy main road The bad: no toilets; confusing menus; desserts could use more care rather than being mere afterthoughts What the?: Malaysian-Thai-Indonesian menu
When a dear friend leaves for greener pastures, bittersweet thoughts swim through ones mind like a wave of mixed emotions. Happy to see them further their success, but equally doleful they will be further away, a sense of longing lingers. Reading last Tuesday about my favourite Greek restaurant Perama's impending departure, I become wistful as recollections of long gone friends entered my consciousness; thankfully as one door closes another one opens, so the sadness will be short and sweet.
My disposition towards Greek cuisine has long been subdued, and have more often than not been underwhelmed by the simplistic earthiness of the food. That changed forever when my tastebuds were first privy to the tremendous what-the-hell-is-the-chef-thinking brilliance of the now-iconic pork belly baklava. These cubes of straticulated filo pastry, pork belly, dates, pistachios, and crispy pork crackling are a heavenly combination of savoury and sweet, and a must-order dish that has rightfully become the signature of this wonderful suburban restaurant. Having eaten here numerous times (all right, three) in the past year, I have never failed to order this dish, but many of the other dishes are equally yummy, from the simple yet delicious lamb skaras to the mushroom and truffle moussaka to the caramel baklava ice cream.
So, as the Perama era comes to an end and the Xanthi era soon to begin next month in Westfield Sydney, let us rejoice in the food that chef David Tsirekas has brought to the inner west hoi polloi. Not in words but in song and pictures. Take it away Johnny Young and the Young Talent Time Team ....
♬ Close your eyes and I'll kiss you .... ♬
Pickled octopus ($8.00) - Clarence River octopus pickled in white vinegar, blended vegetable and extra virgin olive oil with garlic, lemon and oregano
♬ Tomorrow I'll miss you .... ♬
Crispy pork belly stifatho ($8.50) - chopped crispy pork belly tossed in a chilled clove and cinnamon tomato honey sauce
♬ Remember I'll always be true .... ♬
Zucchini fritters ($6.50) - a mixture of shredded zucchini and haloumi with dill, mint and parsley
♬ And then while I'm away .... ♬
Pork belly baklava ($19.00) - layers of flaky filo pastry, pork belly meat, date and pistachios, topped with crispy crackling and served with a date and mastic sauce
♬ I'll write home every day .... ♬
Pork souvlaki ($30.50) - skewered pork loin fillet served with condiments of chopped tomato, sliced red onion, mustard, tzatziki and handcut chips to be rolled with accompanying toasted pita bread
♬ And I'll send all my loving to you .... ♬
Lamb skaras ($29.50) - slow braised lean lamb shoulder with oregano, olive oil, wine and garlic, then char-grilled with a lemon, olive oil baste and served with baked oregano lemon potatoes and string beans
♬ All my loving I will send to you .... ♬
Seafood saganaki ($34.00) - prawns, black mussels and calamari cooked in a fish tomato sauce and served on a bed of currant pistachio pilaf and melted kasseri cheese
♬ All my loving, darling I'll be true .... ♬
Efharisto for the food memories and best wishes for the exciting new venture!
'Never On Sundae' loukoumathes ($13.50) - Greek-style doughnut balls dipped in honey and walnuts and served with vanilla bean ice cream, lemon halva mascarpone cream, sour cherries, and crumbled kourabiethes
Perama closes Saturday the 6th of August, so get in quickly for your last chance at Sydney's best modern Greek taverna-atmosphere dining. Please be aware Perama is currently closed until Tuesday the 12th of July.
The good: wonderful pork belly baklava; modern and creative Greek food from entrees to desserts; taverna-like atmosphere; efficient and friendly service
The bad: it's closing; the takeaway shop-like 'rustic Grandma's chips'; toilets are pokey
What the?: each time I've dined here, the chef's young family (his daughters are so adorable!) were eating dinner at a table on the ground floor
