Dish Of The Week - Etch (Sydney)

Oh Etch, how could I have wronged you so? How could I have cheated on you when you have been so kind and generous to me? I should never have doubted you. The lure of the new and untried was too difficult to resist whenever I was in the Circulay Quay area, but now I've learnt my lesson. Totes.

The rabbit and chicken terrine entree may not be thrillingly presented, but boy are the flavours and textures a glorious triumph in combination. Warm and well seasoned, the tender meat's flavours are enhanced by the sweetness of the cubes and spheres of picked honeydew, while crispy pancetta crumbs and Dijon emulsion give supplementary and opposing textures. Terrines don't normally excite me, but this one rocks harder than The Foo Fighters.

More complex but equally arresting, the lamb main is a busy plate of contrasting colours and textures, a trademark of Etch's mains. Well-cooked and meltingly tender tranches of rump at one end and a log of belly crumbed and deep-fried at the other, the rump is subtly delicious while the belly is intensely flavoursome of lamb. A garden of broad beans and salad leaves are a respite from the meat, but a lack of detectable mintiness was disappointing, although not enough to detract from the overall plate.

Sorry Aria. Sorry Opera Kitchen. Sorry Cafe Sydney. Sorry The Bridge Room. You promise and deliver much but Etch will always be my numero uno baby.

www.etchdining.com

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Happy New Year everybody!

Christmas Music - Glee - Let It Snow

Glee - Let It Snow

Oh the weather outside is frightful

But the fire is so delightful

And since we've no place to go

Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!

It doesn't show signs of stopping

And I've bought some corn for popping

The lights are turned way down low

Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!

When we finally kiss goodnight

How I'll hate going out in the storm

But if you'll really hold me tight

All the way home I'll be warm!

The fire is slowly dying

And my dear, we're still good-bying

But as long as you love me so

Let It Snow! Let It Snow! Let It Snow!

Christmas Music - David Hobson - The Holy City

David Hobson - The Holy City

Last night I lay asleeping

There came a dream so fair

I stood in old Jerusalem

Beside the temple there

I heard the children singing

And ever as they sang

Methought the voice of Angels

From Heaven in answer rang

"Jerusalem, Jerusalem!

Lift up your gates and sing,

Hosanna in the highest

Hosanna to your King!"

And then methought my dream was chang'd

The streets no longer rang

Hush'd were the glad Hosannas

The little children sang

The sun grew dark with mystery

The morn was cold and chill

As the shadow of a cross arose

Upon a lonely hill

"Jerusalem, Jerusalem!

Hark! How the Angels sing

Hosanna in the highest

Hosanna to your King!"

And once again the scene was chang'd

New earth there seem'd to be

I saw the Holy City

Beside the tideless sea

The light of God was on its streets

The gates were open wide

And all who would might enter

And no one was denied

No need of moon or stars by night

Or sun to shine by day

It was the new Jerusalem

That would not pass away

"Jerusalem! Jerusalem

Sing for the night is o'er

Hosanna in the highest

Hosanna for evermore!"

Christmas Music - David Phelps - O Holy Night

David Phelps - O Holy Night

O Holy night, the stars are brightly shining

It is the night of our dear Savior's birth

Long lay the world in sin and error pining

Till He appeared and the soul felt its worth

A thrill of hope, the weary world rejoices

For yonder breaks a new and glorious morn

Fall on your knees

O hear the angel voices

O night divine!

O night when Christ was born

O night divine!

O night, O night divine!

Truly He taught us to love one another
His law is love and His gospel is peace
Chains shall He break for the slave is our brother
And in His name all oppression shall cease
Sweet hymns of joy in grateful chorus raise we
Let all within us praise His holy name

Fall on your knees

O hear the angel voices

O night divine!

O night when Christ was born

O night divine!

O night, O night divine!

Christmas Music - Mariah Carey - All I Want For Christmas Is You

Mariah Carey - All I Want For Christmas Is You

I don't want a lot for Christmas

There's just one thing I need

I don't care about the presents

Underneath the Christmas tree

I just want you for my own

More than you could ever know

Make my wish come true

All I want for Christmas is .... you

I don't want a lot for Christmas

There's just one thing I need

I don't care about the presents

Underneath the Christmas tree

I don't need to hang my stocking

There upon the fireplace

Santa Claus won't make me happy

With a toy on Christmas day

I just want you for my own

More than you could ever know

Make my wish come true

All I want for Christmas is you

You baby ....

I won't ask for much this Christmas

I don't even wish for snow

I'm just gonna keep on waiting

Underneath the mistletoe

I won't make a list and send it

To the North Pole for Saint Nick

I won't even stay awake to

Hear those magic reindeers click

'Cause I just want you here tonight

Holding on to me so tight

What more can I do?

Baby all I want for Christmas is you

Ooh baby

All the lights are shining

So brightly everywhere

And the sound of children's

Laughter fills the air

And everyone is singing

I hear those sleigh bells ringing

Santa won't you bring me the one I really need

Won't you please bring my baby to me ....

Oh I don't want a lot for Christmas

This is all I'm asking for

I just want to see my baby

Standing right outside my door

Oh I just want you for my own

More than you could ever know

Make my wish come true

Baby all I want for Christmas is .... you

All I want for Christmas is you .... baby ....

Christmas Music - Charice - My Grown-Up Christmas List

Charice - My Grown-Up Christmas List

Do you remember me?

I sat upon your knee

I wrote to you

With childhood fantasies

Well, I'm all grown up now

And still need help somehow

I'm not a child

But my heart still can dream

So here's my lifelong wish

My grown-up christmas list

Not for myself

But for a world in need

No more lives torn apart

That wars would never start

And time would heal all hearts

And everyone would have a friend

And right would always win

And love would never end

This is my grown-up christmas list

As children we believed

The grandest sight to see

Was something lovely

Wrapped beneath our tree

Well heaven only knows

That packages and bows

Can never heal

A hurting human soul

No more lives torn apart

That wars would never start

And time would heal all hearts

And everyone would have a friend

And right would always win

And love would never end

This is my grown-up christmas list

What is this illusion called the innocence of youth

Maybe only in our blind belief can we ever find the truth

(there'd be)

No more lives torn apart

That wars would never start

And time would heal all hearts

And everyone would have a friend

And right would always win

And love would never end, oh

This is my grown-up christmas list

This is my only lifelong wish

This is my grown-up christmas list

Christmas Music - Clay Aiken - Don't Save It All For Christmas Day

Clay Aiken - Don't Save It All For Christmas Day

Don't get so busy that you miss

Giving just a little kiss

To the ones you love

And don't even wait a little while

To give them a little smile

A little is enough

How many people are crying?

Some people are dying ....

How many people are asking for love?

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

To give a little love everyday

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

'Cause holidays have come and gone

But love lives on

If you give on

Love ....

How could you wait another minute?

A hug is warmer when you're in it

Oh baby that's a fact

And saying "I love you" is always better

Seasons, reasons, they don't matter

So don't hold back

How many people in this world?

So needful in this world

How many people are praying for love?

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

To give a little love everyday

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

'Cause holidays have come and gone

But love lives on

If you give on

Give love ....

Let all the children know

Everywhere that they go

Their whole life long

Let them know love

Ohhhhh

Yeah, and give a little love everyday

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

'Cause holidays have come and gone

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

To give a little love everyday

Don't save it all for Christmas Day

Find a way

'Cause holidays have come and gone

Christmas Music - 98 Degrees - Christmas Wish

98 Degrees - Christmas Wish

Christmas ain't the same ....

(Oh, girl)

Christmas ain't the same without you ....

Waiting for the day I see you again

It's Christmas night

I'm by the fireside

Wishing that you and I

Could share our love one last time

And baby, I need you near me

Right here with me for eternity (oh oh)

Exchanging gifts of warmth and tenderness

Holding you close is my Christmas wish

Chorus:

Christmas ain't the same without you

It just doesn't feel like it used to

Waiting for the day I'll see you again ('til I see you)

I hold my breath and pray to the stars for you 'til then

Baby I, made some mistakes that I

Really regret inside (why can't we get one last chance?)

Aww .... I loved you girl

With all of my heart

Right from the start

Thought we'd never part (oh no)

Remembering your touch and your eternal bliss

That is my only Christmas wish

Chorus (2x)

(Oh no no no)

I hold my breath and pray to the stars for you 'til then

(Oh no!)

Christmas ain't the same without you ....

The same ....

Chorus (2x)

Music Friday - Thompson Square - Glass

Thompson Square - Glass

Trying to live and love

With a heart that can't be broken

Is like trying to see the light with eyes that can't be opened

Yeah, we both carry baggage

We picked up on our way, so if you love me do it gently

And I will do the same

We may shine, we may shatter

We may be picking up the pieces here on after

We are fragile, we are human

We are shaped by the light we let through us

We break fast, 'cause we are glass

'Cause we are glass

I'll let you look inside me, through the stains and through the cracks

And in the darkness of this moment

You see the good and bad

But try not to judge me, 'cause we've walked down different paths

But it brought us here together, so I won't take that back

We may shine, we may shatter

We may be picking up the pieces here on after

We are fragile, we are human

We are shaped by the light we let through us

We break fast, 'cause we are glass

We might be oil and water, this could be a big mistake

We might burn like gasoline and fire

It's a chance we'll have to take

We may shine, we may shatter

We may be picking up the pieces here on after

We are fragile, we are human

And we are shaped by the light we let through us

We break fast, cause we are glass

We are glass

Restaurant Review - Assembly (Sydney)

With the preponderance of bars almost at saturation point in Sydney, it takes a point of difference to stand out from the increasingly packed crowd. So what has the nascent Assembly done to differentiate itself? Serve what is possibly Sydney's most expensive and overpriced chips, that's what.

Assembly - the name of which evokes memories of my primary school days - is a new-ish bar in the CBD's Regent Place, a barely sustainable precinct buttressed only by the presence of Chefs Gallery, a Gloria Jeans, and three of chef Kimitaka Azuma's branded eateries (Azuma Kushiyaki, Azuma Cafe, and Ton Ton). All are on the George Street level of Regent Place; descend the escalator into the lower level (opening onto Kent Street) and you have an unoccupied dead space which has been a dismal commercial failure ever since it opened a few years ago. But now the surprise appearance of a cocktail bar looks set to jumpstart this section of Regent Place, as long as the drinks and food are good and people can actually find the place.

Aesthetically, Assembly resembles the prototypical 2011 bar with its tired industrial chic look of bare walls, bare floors, and exposed pipes and beams. It is about as predictable as a Phil Hughes dismissal involving Chris Martin and Martin Guptill (apologies to those who do not have a clue what he's talking about - Ed). Food-wise, it's the de rigueur tapas or 'share' plates which are ideal in this happy-hour environment, but alongside the predictable (pork belly, calamari, scallops, hot dogs, etcetera.), there are more interesting fare, such as a wild mushroom and lentil hot pot, sweet potato couscous, and provolone peppers croquettes. Apart from the savouries, there is also one dessert on the single-page menu - a warm chocolate fondant + coconut gooey. Unfortunately, neither the hotdogs nor the choc fondant were available on our visit, which was inexcusable since there are four types of hotdogs and just one dessert on the menu.

The share plates we did order came out fairly quickly, and the quality was mixed. The calamari fritti were decent, with an average batter, a few rubbery pieces here and there, and a dipping sauce with a dose of spiciness but not much character.

The Assembly's fries were equally average, some steak-cut chips cooked decently but egregiously undermined by a cheese and truffle sauce that had the consistency of instant cement. So much so that it could not be used as a dipping sauce, but rather as a spread. The sauce tasted of truffle rather than cheese, and as Charlie & Co.'s parmesan and truffle fries have shown, this can be a delightfully awesome combination. Alas, this version does not even come close, and to charge $13 for such an underwhelming product deserves three strikes with the cane. Even a three-hatted fine diner such as Est. only charges $10 for their chips, while the Charlie & Co.'s superb fries are only $10 at the Opera Kitchen. In addition, my question regarding the truffle sauce's texture was quickly directed to the kitchen but the answer was not delivered immediately. The waitress lingered for about five minutes around the bar after emerging from the kitchen before I had to ask for the chef's reply.

Ignoring the forgettable fries, the pork belly slider also came as a shock, as it was merely a sandwich. I wondered if they had simply exhausted supplies of the mini burger buns but the unavailability of the hotdogs may have been a fair portent. Bun malfunction aside, the pork belly was delicious and the crackling golden and wonderfully crunchy, with the saltiness complemented nicely by sweet pickled red cabbage.

Assembly undoubtedly has potential with a menu of a slightly different bent, but it is a work in progress. Overpriced fries, unavailability of certain items, and amateurish service marred our first experience. Like the creepy decapitated mannequins overlooking the eating and drinking area, Assembly is similarly headless and a little lost. Its slightly difficult location can be overcome with fantastic, affordable, and quirky food, but at the moment, it flunks the test.

The good: pork belly in the 'slider' was moreish; interesting and quirky menu of share plates

The bad: location in Regent Place; unflattering service; unavailability of certain menu items; pork belly slider was more pork belly sandwich; no toilets

What the?: $13 fries is delusional

www.assemblybar.com.au

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Music Friday - Roxette - Listen To Your Heart

Roxette - Listen To Your Heart

I know there's something in the wake of your smile

I get a notion from the look in your eyes, yeah

You've built a love but that love falls apart

Your little piece of heaven turns too dark

Listen to your heart

When he's calling for you

Listen to your heart

There's nothing else you can do

I don't know where you're going

And I don't know why

But listen to your heart

Before you tell him goodbye

Sometimes you wonder if this fight is worthwhile

The precious moments are all lost in the tide, yeah

They're swept away and nothing is what it seems

The feeling of belonging to your dreams

Listen to your heart

When he's calling for you

Listen to your heart

There's nothing else you can do

I don't know where you're going

And I don't know why

But listen to your heart

Before you tell him goodbye

And there are voices

That want to be heard

So much to mention

But you can't find the words

The scent of magic

The beauty that's been

When love was wilder than the wind

Listen to your heart

When he's calling for you

Listen to your heart

There's nothing else you can do

I don't know where you're going

And I don't know why

But listen to your heart

Before you tell him goodbye

Listen to your heart

When he's calling for you

Listen to your heart

There's nothing else you can do

I don't know where you're going

And I don't know why

But listen to your heart

Before you tell him goodbye

Restaurant Review - Jamie's Italian (Sydney)

Holy margherita pizza Mario, look at the queues! Sydney loves nothing more than a celebrity chef's eatery, and when that chef is ubiquitous "media personality" Jamie Oliver, the interest is magnified ten-fold.

It did not take long for Jamie's Italian in Sydney CBD's Pitt Street to pique the palates of the Harbour City, and having been open for only a short while, the word is out: no reservations. And the fans have come out in force, whether it is for lunch or for dinner, eager to taste his pukka tucker.

The industrial chic interior (read grey concrete walls, graffiti, and moody lighting) is long and spacious, but the tables fill up fast. Fridays are normally ripe for boozy long lunches, and this Friday was no exception; within half an hour of opening at 11.30a.m., the place was packed with city workers.

The food is Italian (duh) and the menu comprises a raft of classic favourites (prawn lunguine, risotto Milanese, veal Saltimbocca, etcetera) and some odd intruders (flash-cooked greens?). The menu is also cumbersomely and physically large, and there are surfeit choices that require a lot of perusing.

An order of spaghetti bolognese (entree size), smoky scarmoza arancini, funky chips, and un-Italian flash-cooked greens arrived in a canter, barely ten minutes after ordering. The bolognese was fairly pukka, but the neat addition of some crunchy breadcrumbs varied the texture and improved the otherwise pedestrian dish. The arancini was crackingly crispy on the outside, but the absence of smokiness and its ham-fisted presentation were spoilers; unaccompanied by plates, the best way to eat them were to stab with a fork and bite, hardly ideal. The funky chips were plain unfunky, and uncrunchy; handcut chips are great if they are as good as frozen chips, but these were not, while scattered slices of fresh garlic were not worth the trouble. Lastly, the strange side dish of flash-cooked greens were simply dreadful: barely a soupcon of the advertised garlic and chilli, super-bland, and worst of all, watery. Wet cardboard would have been more tasty.

Thankfully, the Ultimate Brownie saved the day, despite its dubious authenticity. Lacking the richness and density of a classic brownie, this was cakey and more chocolate pudding/fondant-like: moist, sweet, and possessing a crispy top. Chunks of amaretto-soaked raspberries added tartness to the deliciousness, complemented by a scoop of generic but satisfying vanilla ice cream. Definitely the best dish of an otherwise disappointing lunch.

Jamie's Italian somehow missed the beat on this occasion. The service was capable and friendly, but it was almost too efficient in delivery speed. The noise levels were raucously high, and guaranteed to be for the majority of times because of the eatery's popularity. Where it fell down most though was in the food. Yes, it is reasonably inexpensive compared to equivalent places in the centre of Sydney, but it was more glorified fast food Italian than a noshery bearing the name of one of the world's best known chefs. In my world, big names mean little, and when the food is this sloppily executed, they mean even less.

The good: delicious "brownie"; great arancini (except for the awkward presentation); fast and friendly service; moderately inexpensive

The bad: most of the dishes were average, and the flash-cooked greens were horrendous; noise levels high; lengthy queues for a table unless one is early; cumbersome menu

What the?: charging $7 for wet cardboard (aka flash-cooked greens) is an outrage

www.jamieskitchen.com.au

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Music Friday - Eva Avila - I'm Sorry

Eva Avila - I'm Sorry

If I could turn to you

You know I'm dying to

The night could turn to day

But all the days just seem so long

So where did I go wrong?

There's more I have to say

I made a mistake, I'm human you know

What would it take?

I know I've got no more chances oh

I'm on my knees, I'm sorry

I wallow in pain, I swallow my pride

I swallow the sea of tears

You cried for me .... I'm sorry

Last night I was asleep

And you were next to me

I saw your tender smile

But oh, I opened up my eyes

And in this bed of lies

I felt my own heart breaking

I made a mistake, I'm human you know

What would it take?

I know I've got no more chances oh

I'm on my knees, I'm sorry

I wallow in pain, I swallow my pride

I swallow the sea of tears

You cried for me .... I'm sorry

Always on my mind

A million reasons why

I can't believe your love has passed me by

I made a mistake, I'm human you know

What would it take?

I know I've got no more chances oh

I'm on my knees, I'm sorry oh

I wallow in pain, I swallow my pride

I swallow the sea of tears

That you cried for me .... I'm sorry

I'm sorry